Drinking Water Faucets: Air Gap, Non-Air-Gap and Designer Finishes

The dedicated drinking faucet is the only part of your reverse osmosis system anyone sees, so it is worth spending two minutes on the decision instead of accepting whatever ships in the box.

Air gap versus non-air-gap

An air gap faucet routes the RO drain line up through the faucet body and back down, creating a physical break that prevents drain water from being siphoned back into the system. Some local codes require it. The tradeoff is a faint gurgle when the system flushes, and three holes through the deck instead of one.

A non-air-gap faucet is quieter and simpler, and pairs with an approved drain saddle or air gap device installed elsewhere in the drain line. Your installer should tell you which approach satisfies local plumbing code before drilling anything.

Finish and style

• Match the main kitchen faucet finish: brushed nickel, matte black, chrome, champagne bronze
• Standard goose-neck: highest clearance for pitchers and bottles
• Low-profile: better under a window or low upper cabinet
• Combination faucets: RO water through the existing main faucet's second waterway, no extra deck hole

Where it gets installed

Most kitchens already have an unused deck hole from a discontinued soap dispenser or side sprayer — free real estate. If not, stainless steel and composite sinks drill easily. Granite and quartz require a diamond bit and a steady hand; this is not a place to improvise.

Don't forget the fridge

A drinking faucet is one outlet. If you want RO water in your ice maker and door dispenser too, ask for a refrigerator tee at install. Retrofitting it later means pulling the cabinet apart again.

BlueWell Water Co tests hardness, chlorine and TDS at your kitchen sink for free anywhere in the San Antonio area, then quotes only the equipment your house actually needs.